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Close to the village green of Walberswick and just a stones throw away
from the harbour, stands the venerable Bell Inn, built sometime during
the 15th century.
Inside it is easy to imagine that in the past, this was a favourite
place of Suffolk smugglers, with its open fires, beamed ceilings, hidden
alcoves and floors worn down over the years by the tramping of many
feet.
Turning the clock forward to the 20th century, to the year 1914 to be
precise, I am able to give a name to one of the inns visitors, though I
hasten to say that he was not a smuggler, but a 'spy', well for at least
a week!
He was the architect, designer and water colourist Mr. Charles Rennie
Mackintosh. As his surname suggests, Mackintosh was born in Glasgow
Scotland in the year 1868. He originally studied to be an architect, but
also attended evening classes in art. Over time Mackintosh developed his
own unique style and his designs are still used to this day. In the
early 1900s Mackintosh decided to set up his own architect practice but
unfortunately the venture failed. He became disillusioned with Scotland
and decided to leave, it was the year 1914.
Mackintosh and his wife Margaret, rented a house from their friend
Philip Wilson Steer, who owned a place in Walberswick by the name of
Valley Farm, which was right next to the Bell Inn.
In a recent book written by the actor and writer John Cairney, entitled
'The Quest for Charles Rennie Mackintosh', it is said that his time
spent in Walberswick was not an altogether happy one. Mackintosh's
slightly eccentric habits had the locals believing that he was a German
spy. To the extent that he spent a week in prison, that is until his
innocence was proven by his wife when she returned from a trip some
several days later.
Mackintosh had been observed taking walks in the evening along the
seashore carrying a lantern, the locals began to believe that he was in
fact signaling to German ships out at sea. He was probably seeking
inspiration for his work. But the people of Walberswick thought
otherwise and informed the local army, they turned up at Valley Farm to
question Charles Rennie Mackintosh one evening after one of his
walks.
Finding his home full of soldiers, Mackintosh is said to have raved at
them in Scottish and with his strong Glaswegian accent the soldiers
mistook him for a German. So they arrested him there and then and
threw him into jail.
Unfortunately after this spell in prison, Macintosh decided he had had
enough of Suffolk, so he and his wife moved to London in 1915. Despite
his adventures in Walberswick, Macintosh managed to paint some exquisite
water colours such as the “Faded Rose” and “Grey Iris”.

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